The bivouac. We came from behind the ridge and left. To ride we would rappel off the deck.

Words/Photos: Jeremy Jones

The hike to our bivouac was suppose to take 2 to 3 hours. An exposed knife edge ridge turned it into 6. I thought for sure we were lost only to find the bivouac, a glorified portaledge, bolted to the side of the cliff. I guess this is their way of crowd control over here. Sleeping was pretty much useless. I have never slept this high and with Mont Blanc out the front door cleaning itself every ten minutes the energy was like nothing I have felt before.

Xavier, Matt Heriger and myself take in the view.

We dropped into the abyss at 3AM and hopes were high. We had given the face an extra day to set up because it was more loaded from the last storm than expected. The forecast was for clear skies but it was wrong. The night was not cold and clear and the mountains had not locked up like we needed them to. By 5 AM we were at our point of no return. As much as we wanted to push on it was clear things were too warm. This was confirmed by the distant sound of snow or ice crumbling down the mountain.

Xavier moments from safety.

Heading back to the bivouac.

The route up. It was hard to leave this behind but it was the right call.

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